Aug. 30-31, '06, Thredbo/Perisher Blue, Australia

The Lonely Planet guide for Australia advises that skiing/snowboarding in Australia are "marginal activities".  I figured it must be worth checking out while down in this part of the southern hemisphere.

Two of Australia's largest lift-served resorts (Thredbo and Perisher Blue) are situated within Kosciuszko National Park, located in the "Snowy Mountains" (a sub-range of the Great Dividing Range of eastern Australia between Melbourne and Sydney).  Both of these ski areas have extensive modern lift systems.  In general there was little or no wait in lines to board the lifts, though weekends are reported to bring massive crowds.

While not particularly steep mountains, the rolling hills reach heights above 2,000 (over 6,500-ft).  The highest mountain in this sub-range (Mount Kosciuszko) is about 7,300-ft high.

Outside of the ski areas, these mountains would seem to be a nordic skiers paradise with a large expanse of gently rolling snowy hills separated by large basins.  There are some steeps in places, but nothing sustained like in New Zealand.  In the lift-served areas, the steeps are typically less than 300-400 vert. feet before mellowing-out.  Much of the steeper terrain is located mid-way between the mountain tops and the valley floors (the hills are generally convex in shape with relatively flat terrain near the broad ridge tops).

In contrast to New Zealand, Australia has had a relatively low snow year.  Nonetheless, I found the skiing here to be much better than expected.  Warm spring-like temperatures made for some nice corn skiing on sunny slopes.  Some grass skiing became necessary on a couple of runs at Thredbo where the snow cover conveniently ended (the runs were officially "open" despite the absence of snow in places, I'm guessing as a justification for still charging full price for the lift tickets (~$70 USD, ouch!).  To pour a little salt on the financial wounds, the lift ticket price does not include the National Park entrance fee of ~$17 USD per day). 

Thredbo claims to have the largest lift-served vertical drop in Australia (~2,200 ft) and the highest lift-served point in Australia (~6,700 ft).  Despite the general absence of snow on the lower half of the mountain, an extensive snow-making system has made it possible to still ski from top to bottom in this "low snow" year.  It was actually quite enjoyable to ski around the interesting granitic rock outcroppings and/or the eucalyptus trees on the upper mountains.  Both Perisher Blue and Thredbo featured such interesting rock formations above tree line.  Perisher Blue also features "double blue" rated runs, a designation I haven't seen before.

With the lift ticket funds and vacation days running low, it's off to Sydney tomorrow, then back home in a few days.

Great read, Cass.
Nice to hear that your vacation is going well.

We were in Oz July 2004 and it was the best snow year in decades; even the climbers were off to ski and board the Snowy Range. The weather was so shite at Mt Arapiles where we were cragging for 4 days that we skipped the snow and Sydney and drove N 3 days to desert isle Magnetic Island, but when we went to NZ we got 2 days skiing at Treble Cone near Wanaka and it was sweet.
We teachers travel in the northern summer and that means winter in the southern hemisphere , so we we take what we get and like it. I recommend renting gear if you hit the road much, and just bring minimal winter clothes, gloves, eyewear, etc. I had no troublems finding tele rigs in the NZ resort towns.
Treble Cone had the sketchiest approach road I have EVER seen. The pow was fine up high an' the locals happy to take us around. The heli skiing there is quite cheap, too- I waited 4 days for a day's flying but there was too much snow falling. Climbing,bouldering, hiking, eats and pubs, Lord of the Rings tours, and the Puzzling World are cool while you are there.